The land and its people – The Iblean Mountains border the South-Eastern side of
Sicily, almost as if naturally protecting the area. The cities, notably those in the
mountainside, with their plenty of woods and slopes, have retained their agricultural
traditions that, throughout the centuries, have represented an invaluable resource. The
carob, an evergreen often standing alone with shiny dark-green leaves, is a dominant
feature of the Iblean landscape. Thanks to their consistency in weight, the carob seeds
were used to weight gold, hence the term “carat”.
The dry-stone wall, bordering and criss-crossing the fields of the province, is another
major feature. Commonly used to mark the fields’ boundries, they are made of the
typical local limestone that is formed in layers beneath the soil. Eroded or broken by
water, layers break into smaller rocks and stones that are largely used as a building
material. The dry-stone walling involves a long and difficult process only made by skilled
craft-workers, that are regarded as artists. These fine walls, that you can only find in
Apulie, first appeared in the area during Counts Henriquez Cabreras’ rule and their
policy of granting lands on emphyteusis to the peasants.
MOUNTAIN TOUR
The Iblean Mountains provide an itinerary suitable for both nature and arts lovers. The
130km round route can be covered in two days, overnighting in Palazzolo Acreide or, if
starting from the opposite side of the chain, in Caltagirone. A short detour allows
excursionists to reach the city of Buscemi, with a highly panoramic view.
The Sanctuary of Gulfi – Located in proximity to Chiaramonte, the sanctuary lies
secluded on an area where was a settlement before an earthquake destroyed in 1693.
According to legend, there a group of bulls carried a statue of the Virgin – that
they had found at the nearby shore – and knelt. The story is painted on four
medallions preserved within the building;the recovery of the Statue of the Saviour, today
preserved into the homonymous church in Chiaramonte Gulfi, is also related.
Chiaramonte Gulfi – The Greek Akrillai, renamed Gulfi by the Arabians, was razed in
1296 by the Count Manfredi Chiaramonte who then rebuilt and named it after his own
dynasty. The city’s medieval design is still visible despite the ravaging eartquake
in 1693. The Arco dell’Annunziata, giving access to the old city, is the only remain
of the former city. Several baroque buildings are worth-mentioning, like the Church of
Saint John (atop the hill) and the Mother Church. The main street, Corso Umberto I, is
bordered by fine 1700’s and 1800’s palazzi. At its far end is the Villa Comunale
(Town Gardens) offering a panoramic view of the valley. A nice pineta (pine-wood) is
situated in the high side of the city, providing a relaxing and peaceful site with sights
of the city and the Etna volcano. There rises the Santuario delle Grazie, where, according
to legend, the Virgin in 1576 created a water spring to save the city from the plague.
The road leading to Monterosso Almo runs between gentle slopes bordered by plantations and
the typical dry-stone walls.
Monterosso Almo – The Chiesa di S. Giovanni, dominating the omonymous piazza, is the
main attraction of this small agricultural city. Attributed to architect Vincenzo Sinatra,
the building has a nice façade with columns and a belfry. Fine frescoes ornament the
interior. Medallions with low-reliefs, telling episodes of the life of Saint John, adorn
the central nave. Down to the low-side of the city (like Ragusa and Modica, Monterosso is
divided into two – often vying – sides, following the 1693 earthquake) is the
Chiesa di S. Antonio (or Santuario di Maria SS. Addolorata). On the same square stand the
neo-Gothic Mother Church and the elegant Palazzo Zacco.
Giarratana – The major artistic attractions of Giarratana are the Late-Renaissance
Chiesa Madre and the Baroque churches of San Bartolomeo and Sant’Antonio Abate. The
city hosts the traditional Onion festival, recurring annually in August and attracting
thousands of people. From Giarratana the Lauro Mount is easily reachable.
The Lauro Mount – The road climbing up the mount is highly panoramic and bordered by
carob-trees and pines. Soon, it rejoins the main road to Palazzolo.
