Modica grew up in the southern reach of the Iblean mountains and was originally divided
into two areas: Modica Alta (Upper Modica), whose picturesque stone houses nestle on the
slopes of a mount, and Modica Bassa (Lower Modica), lying down in the valley once flown by
the rivers Ianni Mauro and Pozzo dei Pruni – covered at the beginning of the century
because of frequent floods – where now runs the Corso Umberto, the city’s main
thoroughfare and historic centre of the town. Over the years the town has extended its
territory to new areas, namely Modica Sorda, Monserrato, Idria, etc., now considered as
the “new” Modica.
The town heart baroque look mainly resulted from the 18th century post-quake
reconstruction, the disaster having completely razed the old city.
The few surviving remnants include: the gothic portal of the Chiesa del Carmine; ruins of
the 16th century Chiesa di S. Maria del Gesù; the 15th century Chapel of the Sacrament
within the Chiesa di Santa Maria di Betlemme; the recently discovered 12th century
cave-church of San Nicolò Inferiore (St. Nicholas), in a late-Byzantine style, preserving
decorations ranging in date from the 8th through the 16th century.
What makes Modica so unique and charming are undoubtely its baroque look
that dominates the old town centre, but also the maze of narrow streets bordered by old
shops, houses and buildings, that characterize both Modica Alta and Modica Bassa. A tour
of the churches and palazzi of the city is highly recommended.
The stately Cathedral of San Giorgio is one of the most important and impressing religious
monuments in all Sicily. Its origin is partly unknown. According to historian Carrafa, the
original structure of the church dated from the early Middle ages and was destroyed by the
Arabians in 845; in the beginning of the 12th century it was rebuilt and dedicated to
Saint George by Roger The Norman. Highly damaged by the 1613’s earthquake, it was
rebuilt at the behest of Count Giovanni Alfonso Henriquez-Cabrera. Another, more
devastating earthquake in 1693, razed it to the ground; the reconstruction, sumptuous like
never before, it is alleged, was entrusted to celebrated architect Rosario Gagliardi, from
Siracusa, already author of the San Giorgio’s in Ragusa. Some claim it resulted from
a collaboration of architects from Noto.
The church, with nave and double aisles, was re-opened in 1738; the magnificent flight of
250 steps, that starts down from Corso Garibaldi, pays homage to the stately front
elevation; it was finished in 1818 by Jesuit Francesco di Mauro. The façade rises through
three levels to a single bell-tower; a sense of sweeping movement is imparted by the
projecting convex central bay, flanked to each side by twin bays that accommodate the
double aisles. A balustrade and a pair of compact volutes act to soften the strong
horizontal transition between the ground and first levels. Inside, it contains a highly
prized chased silver altar front upon which sits a fine polyptych (1513) by Bernardino
Niger. The three tiers show the Holy Family between St George and St Martin, with, above
the Joyful Mysteries and the Glorious - Mysteries. The transept floor is inlaid with a 19C
meridian by A Perini. The third chapel on the right contains an Assumption altarpiece by
Francesco Paladini. The aisles are richly ornamented with stuccoes and paintings, such as
the 1513’s Events of the Gospel and of the life of Saint George, by Girolamo
Aliprandi, who was known as the “Raphael of Sicily”.
The Chiesa del Carmine, near Piazza Corrado Rizzone, was a convent of Carmelitani friars.
Both the church and the convent date back to the 16th century, when the religious order
first came to Sicily. The church was highly injured by the 1693’s earthquake and
retains of its original structure a splendid doorway and a sumptuous rose-window. The
inside, with a nave, has altars on both sides, one of which holds the Annunciation, a
precious sculptural group, dating from the 16th century, by Antonio Gagini. The main altar
contains notable relief stuccoes.
The Church of St. Mary of Betlehem, in Modica Bassa, along the main Corso, by Prince of
Piedmont’s Square, originates from a 15th century highly damaged construction, of
which a portal in the right aisle has only survived. Inside is a finely decorated truss
roof. At the back of the right aisle is the Chapel of the Sacrament, with an octagonal
cupola decorated with Arabesque pendentives in gothic style and enriched with Arabian,
Norman and Catalan elements. The church preserves the tombs of noble Cabreras. The left
aisle contains a beautiful terracotta Christmas Crib, made by Father Benedetto Papale in
1882.
On the main street also stands the Chiesa di San Pietro, dedicated to the
patron saint of Modica Bassa; erected in the 14th century, it was but rebuilt after the
1693’s earthquake. It has an elegant flight of steps which is flanked by statues of
the twelve apostles. The basilica has fourteen pilasters bearing Corinthian capitals. The
nave is decorated with Scenes from the Old Testament; two important works adorn the right
aisle: La Madonna di Trapani, attributed to Giovanni Pisano, and a polichrome work
depicting Saint Peter and the Paralytic, by Paolo Civiletti (1893).
The 18th century convent of the Mercedari friars is an elegant building housing two
museums: the Town Museum, displaying archaeological finds from the Paleolithic and ancient
Christian Ages, and 18th and 19th century paintings; and the Iblean Museum of Popular Arts
and Traditions, holding a rich display of agricultural tools and antique furniture, and
some faithfully reproduced shops providing a picturesque picture of the old activities and
lifestyle.
The Chiesa di S. Maria delle Grazie, adjacent to a convent, was built thanks to the
recovery, in 1615, of a slate tablet bearing the image of Mary and Child. This tablet is
today kept into the main altar of the church.
The upper side of the town, Modica Alta, also accommodates attractive churches and
buildings; the Palazzo Tomasi-Rossi, has an impressive stone portal and beautiful
balconies at the top floor supported by corbels with masks – suggestive of the
Baroque style.
The Cathedral of San Giovanni, with its impressive belfry, 449 m in height, rises at the
top of a beautiful flight of steps. The façade is on two tiers and is enriched with two
couples of columns.
The Palazzo De Leva, in Modica Bassa, is one of the most stately buildings in Modica. It
accommodates a public office and temporary art exhibitions. It is especially renowned for
its amazing 18th portal, the in Arab-Norman style, which is here commonly referred to as
Chiaramonte style. The Palazzo Polara stands right of the Cathedral of San Giorgio. It is
a splendid building in the baroque style with an elegant flight of steps. Its front
elevation dominates Modica Bassa and its overhanging hills. It accommodates a lovely
art-gallery.
